Trudie Styler, who recently produced a full-length documentary about Naples, had only been there once before she began working on the film. To make matters worse, she and her husband Sting usually spend their summers in Tuscany, which is only a five-hour drive away, so…
Why on earth did you make a film about Naples?
I’ve had quite a connection with Italy: I filmed three movies consecutively in Rome during the 80s, welcomed a child into the world in Pisa in 1990, shared ownership of a charming yet dilapidated home in Tuscany with Sting and established a vineyard and winery there that we visit biannually. I also operate my business from this location. However, like many others, I had only ever hastily traversed Naples; it’s often a pitstop on the way to the Amalfi Coast. Yet, I was eager to explore it further, as we tend to underestimate cities that leave us with uncertainties. In the case of Naples, such dismissals are too simplistic – people say things like “it’s too dirty and dangerous,” but this is not a satisfactory explanation because Neapolitan history is profoundly intricate, with over 3,000 years of conquest by 12 different powers, including Spanish, Byzantine, and Bourbon influences. The Neapolitans are extremely proud of their rich heritage.
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That phrase in the title, posso entrare? What’s that about?
The phrase you’re looking for could be: “This phrase essentially means ‘May I come in?’ and it stems from me tapping on the shutters of houses in Naples – which often have no windows, only shutters – to ask permission. As I did so, I was warmly welcomed by the ladies of the homes with coffee, and we’d sit down together at the table, where they’d share their stories or struggles with me. The people of Naples are known for their love of conversation; they always have something interesting to say. In fact, there’s an old song from Naples that goes ‘Naples is a stage’.
The city does have a reputation for being dangerous, though. Can visitors feel safe?
The notion that bullets are aimlessly flying around is completely unfounded. To clarify, I’m not implying that the Camorra [the Neapolitan mafia] no longer exists; they have a long-standing history of over 600 years. However, tourists in the historical district will find themselves immersed in bustling streets filled with joyful individuals and children. The narrow alleys, or vicoli, are constantly abuzz with people coming and going. In fact, it reminds me of my childhood street in the Midlands, where everyone frequently visited each other’s homes, and we all referred to one another as ‘auntie’ or ‘uncle’ regardless of our actual relationship. Consequently, I never felt apprehensive during my stay in Naples.
So we just have to say, “We’re with Auntie Trudie” and the bad guys will leave us alone?
Give it a go! Neapolitans are incredibly friendly people. If you ever get lost in their narrow streets, or ‘vicoli’, they won’t just point you in the right direction, they’ll personally guide you there. They deeply value community and have hearts full of kindness – you might even witness scenes of neighbors lowering buckets to help older residents who live in apartment buildings without elevators. In Naples, you’ll find cafes like Bar Nilo, where the tradition of ‘caffè sospeso’, or suspended coffee, is practiced. When you buy two coffees, one is for you and the other is kept on credit for someone who comes after but can’t afford one. It’s a heartwarming place that I strongly suggest anyone visiting Naples to experience.
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Where else should visitors go?
We filmed an enchanting scene during nightfall in the historic district, and it was truly captivating: on warm summer evenings, the area is bustling with activity. The mayor has blocked off traffic on Lungomare [seafront promenade], resulting in a vibrant crowd filling the streets, leisurely strolling as part of their traditional Italian evening outing. With the backdrop of Vesuvius and Castel dell’Ovo, the 2,000-year-old castle, it offers an entirely unique and charming atmosphere during those long summer evenings.
You haven’t mentioned food…
To get there, you should walk along the Lungomare, pass the road that leads to Castel dell’Ovo, explore the area, then descend a few stairs where you’ll find several restaurants, all offering excellent seafood and pasta dishes. I often indulge in either spaghetti with clams or spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, and chilli peppers – so you can choose between deliciously seafood-filled or intensely garlicky options.
I bet Sting prefers it when you have the seafood!
I don’t think so…
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2025-01-28 17:34