Napoleon in Paris

As I delved into the rich tapestry of Parisian history, I found myself drawn to the enigmatic figure of Napoleon Bonaparte, whose indelible mark can still be felt on the city today. Having just watched Joaquin Phoenix’s electrifying portrayal of the man in Ridley Scott’s epic biopic, I was eager to immerse myself in the Paris of this larger-than-life figure.

Paris might be known for its museums and romance, but it lacks the youthful exuberance and liveliness found in other global cities. However, this trip I’m making is all about history – specifically, following the footsteps of Napoleon Bonaparte, as portrayed by Joaquin Phoenix in Ridley Scott’s biopic, now streaming on Apple TV+. I’m eager to immerse myself in the city’s rich historical ambiance and uncover the Paris that was shaped by one of history’s most notorious military strategists and someone who supposedly suffered from “short man syndrome.” Napoleon played a significant role in shaping the Paris we see today, with many of its iconic landmarks and boulevards bearing his mark. Even without his direct influence, the wealth that flowed into the city following his campaigns continues to pulse through its very core.

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Take Gare du Nord, for example, where my Eurostar (eurostar.com) arrives after a seamless submarinal trip. The famous terminus is a result of Napoleon III, Bonaparte’s nephew, campaigning for greater infrastructure, and the French railways themselves owe a debt to Boney, too. In 1814, engineer Pierre Michel Moisson-Desroches proposed building seven national railways from Paris in order to travel “short distances within the Empire”. The emperor assented, and France got a half-decent rail network. My accommodation, 25-hours Hotel Paris Terminus Nord (25hours-hotels.com), is just next door, and festooned with decorous touches and Parisian joie de vivre (or whatever the French version is). But now into the city… For a greater insight into Bonaparte’s influence on Paris, I take a two-hour walking tour (parisology.net/rise-of-napoleon-paris-walk). Our guide, Thierry – talking with his hands as much as his mouth, bien sûr – takes my small group to where Napoleon married the love of his life, Josephine, at 3 rue d’Antin, followed by his favourite dinner spot, and then where he saved the French Revolution and became a national hero. He later married his second wife, Marie Louise of Austria, in the Louvre (sadly no longer available as a wedding venue). Full of historical facts and anecdotes, Thierry also talks of Bonaparte’s vision as a head of state and his modernisation of France.

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Views from Above: The Louvre Pyramid, Château de Fontainebleau, and Dining at Le Grand Véfour

Discussing the Louvre, it initially went by the name Musée Central des Arts de la République, later changed to Musée Napoléon by someone prominent – a move that was both shorter and self-aggrandizing. Napoleon’s dream to transform the Louvre into a global museum held elements of enlightening his people as well as making Paris resemble the new Rome. During his conquest of Italy in 1797, he seized artworks for France, among them Veronese’s Wedding Feast at Cana. To transport this vast painting, it was sliced in half; a controversial move, but certainly more manageable regarding baggage allowance. There are numerous sites associated with Napoleon around the city outskirts. The Château de Fontainebleau, just 45 minutes south of Paris, boasts a well-preserved throne room and numerous Bonaparte artifacts. To the west, you’ll find Château de Malmaison, his former countryside estate, and Château Rambouillet, where he stayed before being exiled to St Helena. And let’s not forget Versailles, which Napoleon remodeled according to his lavish preferences following his divorce from Josephine (quite the bachelor pad). Spending a couple of days amidst the sophisticated culture and verdant landscapes of these country estates would be delightful.

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In the heart of Paris, I truly shine when I treat my taste buds as a stand-in for Napoleon. My favorite spots are Café Procope (procope.com) and Le Grand Véfour (grand-vefour.com). At Café Procope, I savor classic French dishes, not just the spirits of Napoleon, but also those of Voltaire, Balzac, and Victor Hugo (can’t help but wonder about the bar tab). Then, I repeat the experience in the opulent surroundings of Le Grand Véfour, where a peasant like me feels humbled, yet the food is far from ordinary. Paris abounds with Napoleonic landmarks, both stunning and historically significant, such as Les Invalides, which holds his tomb and an intriguing military museum. A whole week could be spent exploring these sites; so plan your visit strategically, much like Napoleon himself, to avoid your own Waterloo.

2024-10-08 12:03

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