Van Gogh in Arles

As a seasoned traveler and an art enthusiast with a soft spot for the turbulent lives of great artists, I find myself utterly enchanted by the prospect of stepping into Vincent van Gogh’s shoes (or rather, his paint-splattered boots) in the charming town of Arles. Having watched At Eternity’s Gate and listened to the BBC In Our Time episode, I yearn to delve deeper into the life and art of this tormented genius who managed to create such luminescent masterpieces amidst his own turmoil.

Currently, there’s a renewed interest in Vincent van Gogh as his exhibit at the National Gallery is receiving exceptional praise. To honor this acclaimed Dutch painter who spent significant time in Arles between 1888-1890, various streaming services have prepared content that references his life during that period. For instance, Netflix offers two shows: “Het Schildersleven van Vincent van Gogh (The Painting Life of Vincent van Gogh)” and an episode from “The Great Painters of the World” dedicated to him. On MGM+, you can watch the 2018 film “At Eternity’s Gate,” starring Willem Dafoe as Van Gogh. Lastly, on BBC Sounds, you can listen to an episode of “In Our Time” from last year that provides a comprehensive look at Van Gogh’s life and artwork, with a particular focus on his time in Arles.

Exploring the city bordering Camargue in Provence, where the painter produced over 200 intense works in just two years, has caught the attention of filmmakers. However, one might wonder if it continues to captivate modern-day visitors. Is it possible to glimpse the true artist beneath the troubled genius portrayed in legend? Indeed, it is, particularly during autumn when the city’s crowds and heat have subsided. Moreover, a unique exhibition at the National Gallery, not to be missed, offers an exceptional opportunity to delve deeper into the life of this remarkable painter before your visit.

Instead of relying on a tour guide, consider following in Vincent van Gogh’s footsteps! Take a train from Marseilles airport for 40 minutes straight to the Cavalerie district railway station, just outside the old city walls. Turning left from the station will lead you to the River Rhône and the very spot where Van Gogh painted Starry Night. Behind you lies a roundabout that once housed public gardens, outside the iconic Yellow House where Van Gogh lived with Paul Gauguin for a brief but tumultuous period. It was here that he completed several of his most renowned works, such as Bedroom in Arles, Van Gogh’s Chair, and his second series of Sunflowers. Regrettably, the Yellow House was destroyed during World War II, along with much of the park, but this roundabout (with the Arc de Triomphe being an exception) remains one of the most evocative traffic circles in France.

Within the medieval Porte de la Cavalerie gate, many aspects still resemble what Van Gogh experienced; it’s a tightly-knit urban area with minimal vehicle traffic, making it an enchanting destination for leisurely strolls.

As a movie critic immersed in the world of art, I can’t help but feel the lingering spirit of Vincent van Gogh when strolling through Place du Forum – the very square he once captured in Café Terrace at Night.

Stroll through the narrow streets and you’ll find remnants of an ancient Roman amphitheater and theater – places that didn’t captivate Vincent van Gogh as much as the Alyscamps did. This tree-lined medieval cemetery was where he brought Paul Gauguin to paint en plein air, as art critics say. One of their collaborative works, Les Alyscamps (featured in the National Gallery exhibition), depicts industrial structures like chimneys and railway yards overlooking the old scene. Today, those structures serve as the Luma art center, and above them stands Frank Gehry’s 2021 mirror-covered Luma Tower, which the architect suggests resembles Van Gogh’s Starry Night, though you might need to use your imagination to see it.

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At the foot of Gehry’s tower, The Drum Café is an excellent spot for dining. However, many locations in town offering a Provençal menu and a skilled waiter who knows how to uncork a bottle will also provide a satisfying experience. Simply follow your senses through the narrow streets surrounding Place de la République, and you’ll likely find a place serving Arles tart as dessert – a delightful open pastry filled with apricots and strawberries.

The Place de la République itself is dominated by the strange façade of the fantastical Eglise St Trophime, studded with scores of angels, saints and mythical creatures. Van Gogh disliked this church intensely, calling it “a nightmare”. So perhaps wander down another alley to the Vincent van Gogh Foundation, a gallery in a former bank with a zingy glass-and steel frontage. From the upper terrace, look out over the pantile roofs of the city and you’ll realise that they are not, as Van Gogh painted them in the Yellow House, bright orange blobs of piled-up colour, but an altogether paler red. But Van Gogh didn’t come to Arles to record exactly what he saw, rather to delight in the light and reinvent art. After a pastis or two, you won’t doubt he got it right.

As a passionate film enthusiast, I can’t help but share this exciting news: Until January 2025, the captivating exhibition “Van Gogh: Poets and Lovers” graces the walls of London’s National Gallery. If you’re eager to immerse yourself in the vibrant world of Van Gogh, secure your tickets for as low as £24 from nationalgallery.org.uk. For a deeper understanding of Arles, where many of these masterpieces were born, I recommend exploring arlestourisme.com. Don’t miss out on this extraordinary journey through the life and art of one of history’s greatest painters!

2024-10-04 12:33

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