Experience a reinterpretation of a travel writer’s somewhat enthusiastic yet lukewarm tribute to The Salt Path – an inspiring true account penned by Raynor Winn and her husband Moth, detailing their 630-mile journey along the South West Coast Path. This remarkable tale is currently being brought to life on the big screen with Gillian Anderson and Jason Isaacs starring in the lead roles.
Instead, this high-end pretender navigates only 40 miles (a portion by bus), indulging in hot tubs, fish and chips, and hand cream scented with samphire. From trails that cling to cliffs and Cornish pasties to strolls on sandy beaches barefoot and lavish dinners, it’s a long-weekend getaway demonstrating that you don’t need harsh conditions to experience the enchantment of the seashore.
In a different wording: Raynor Winn and her husband Moth, portrayed by Gillian Anderson and Jason Isaacs in the upcoming film The Salt Path, embarked on a 630-mile journey along the South West Coast Path due to their sudden homelessness after Moth received a terminal brain disease diagnosis. Their tent was not of high quality, having been purchased from eBay.
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In reality, it’s an attempt to disembark from public transportation. The train from London (gwr.com) curves close enough to the sea in certain spots, offering panoramic vistas through those expansive windows, almost like a leisurely Coast Path walk for individuals who prefer comfort over exertion. I’m inclined to ride all the way to the end of the line. However, a ten-minute taxi ride from Newquay transports me to Watergate Bay, where the hotel named after it is located just a stone’s throw from the sand.
Right at my doorstep, the Coast Path feels like an arm’s length away – if it were any closer, walkers could refresh their tired feet in my roll-top bathtub! This means there’s no more room for excuses; I need to log a couple of miles under my belt. The section just beyond this point is simply delightful: the endless panorama of the Atlantic on the left and softly curving hills adorned with wildflowers on the right. Plus, the Path guides me towards Mawgan Porth, where I relish a fish supper from the local chippy, a pint of Sharp’s from the pub nearby, and a picnic table overlooking the beach.
In approximately 40 minutes (after filling up with fuel), I’ll reach Bedruthan Steps, a captivating National Trust site featuring sandstone rocks that appear as if a giant tossed them into the sea like scattered stepping stones or half-eaten snacks, depending on your imagination. Here, I’ll witness a sunset so vibrant it tints not only the sky but also the ocean itself. Afterward, I’ll hail a taxi and return to base, where the sunset’s lingering glow persists for another half-hour along the horizon.
The following day, I depart the hotel moving southwards, feeling a bit apprehensive as the trail leads towards Newquay, a place mostly associated with me with rowdy bachelor parties (and their misadventures). However, the favorable weather allows me to skirt around the town effortlessly by just removing my hiking shoes and walking barefoot on the expansive beaches instead. Each beach here has a delightful hue and consistency similar to Cornish fudge.
As a movie enthusiast, I traverse the sandy shores of Porth, Tolcarne, Towan, Fistral, and Crantock, leaving damp footprints behind. However, the warmth of the May sun quickly dries them off. Eager to reach my destination, I take shortcuts along these beautiful beaches, hurrying to cross Gannel Estuary at low tide before the water submerges more than just my feet.
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At that spot, she touted a scrumptious vegan pastry, claiming it could convert you to veganism. But alas, the sausage roll I also purchased turned out to be even more irresistible.
Reaching Holywell Bay – easily identifiable from the movie, just like Fistral – I pause, take a dip, and hop on a bus back to the hotel, which boasts the fantastic Zacry’s restaurant. The monkfish tail there was as delicious as the sea views. I need a good night’s sleep as tomorrow is a 20-mile trek to Padstow.
In the morning, I’m strolling on a winding path that skirts steep cliffs adorned with thrift and sea campion, offering breathtaking views of lighthouses, lifeboat stations, and bird-filled headlands. The trail leads past hidden coves of stunning aquamarine hue before ending in Padstow, where I treat myself to Rick Stein’s Fish & Chips (rickstein.com/steins-fish-and-chips).
The following morning, my legs were protesting vehemently against any strenuous activity. Instead, I opted for a leisurely morning on a rented surfboard from Wavehunters, conveniently located just a stone’s throw away from the hotel (wavehunters.co.uk). I plan to reconnect with Raynor and Moth Winn another day.
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2025-06-03 19:04