
There’s a rather large problem – a real elephant! I went back to my cabin for a quick nap after lunch and discovered a 900-pound elephant relaxing in my living room. Apparently, the Albida Suite has open sides, and Nelly and her friends enjoy coming in for a swim in the private pool.
One of the benefits of choosing a Zambian safari over more popular locations like Kenya or South Africa is its relative seclusion—and it’s likely why David Attenborough and the team behind ‘Kingdom‘ filmed there for four years.
The hugely popular nature documentary, tracking the lives of four animal families for nearly five years, was filmed in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park. I started my own, much shorter, safari there as well.
I booked a stay at Nkwali Camp through Robin Pope Safaris (robinpopesafaris.net), and it was stunning. The camp overlooks a river full of hippos, and its cozy wooden cottages are nestled amongst the trees, almost hidden from view.
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We explore the park in comfortable 4×4 vehicles with raised seating, ensuring everyone has a fantastic view. Unlike safaris in popular spots like Kenya’s Maasai Mara or South Africa’s Kruger, where you might feel crowded, we quickly realize we often have the animals all to ourselves.
Shortly after starting my first drive, we spotted a small group of zebras. I braced myself for the sound of other vehicles arriving – it was something I expected – but they never came.
The word “exclusivity” is often used in luxury travel, but here it means something more than simply avoiding crowds. Without a constant stream of vehicles surrounding every wildlife sighting, you get a genuine sense of connection with nature and the animals, instead of feeling like you’re observing them in a large zoo.
It’s incredible being around these animals! The baboons are so curious, constantly checking us out, and their babies are total hams for any camera. The giraffes are a bit more dignified, but they definitely seem to enjoy the attention, even giving a little wink. The impalas are easily spooked, though – they bolt at the first sign of us, which makes sense, being lower on the food chain. But it’s the elephants that really make you laugh! They just plant themselves in the road, flare their ears, and trumpet like they own the place. They’ll even pretend to charge if you try to pass, and they clearly love getting a reaction – especially when a few of us jump!
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Walking safaris felt incredibly personal. Accompanied by a guard and a skilled tracker, I followed animal tracks into the wilderness. Without the sound of a vehicle, I could clearly hear the birds – I usually struggle to identify them, but here, each one stood out with vibrant colors, like the bright red bee-eater and the shimmering violet roller. And without the smell of fuel, I was able to enjoy the delicate, sweet fragrance of wild roses, their white and yellow flowers resembling scented fried eggs.
A less attractive sight, but equally striking, was the dried skin of a deceased elephant. Jackals and hyenas had picked at its bones, while vultures wheeled overhead. Watching from a distance were marabou storks – aptly nicknamed “undertaker birds” – with their large, grey wings resembling old-fashioned coats and a gloomy look that perfectly matched their diet of dead animals.
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It’s not just after they die that elephants have companions. While they’re alive, they’re often followed by groups of white egrets, which eat the insects stirred up by the elephants’ massive footsteps – it’s like a ripple effect behind a boat. However, elephants’ biggest admirers are definitely people.
That evening at Nkwali camp, dinner – plates of flavorful rice and tilapia cooked in banana leaves – was quickly forgotten when three elephants wandered past the dining area towards the waterhole. The youngest elephant, too small to stand in the deep water, playfully paddled across the lake, charming everyone who watched and filling up countless photos.
During my stay at Chongwe River Camp in Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park, I was thrilled to spot lions, leopards, and crocodiles. Canoeing near the camp was especially exciting – I even saw crocodiles just a few yards away, lurking near the trees!
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2025-11-05 14:35