Michael Portillo reveals two near-death experiences he encountered in Japan – and the most futuristic thing he found

by

So, Michael, you went to Japan and they buried you?

I was literally sinking into black sand – it was quite an experience! Because Japan has so much volcanic activity, hot springs are really popular. I tried one on Kyushu, the southernmost of the main Japanese islands, where they heat the sand underground. Then, they bury you in it! People believe it’s great for your health – improving circulation, aiding digestion, that sort of thing. Honestly, it’s no stranger than going to a sauna.

Except in a sauna you’re not buried. What if they forget to exhume you?

I probably couldn’t have gotten out on my own, but luckily there were people there to help. They tried to shield me from the sun with a parasol, but it started raining, and it was one of those flimsy paper ones, so it didn’t really keep me dry! I enjoyed my time in Kyushu, but I don’t plan on repeating that particular experience anytime soon. Near Ibusuki, where I was buried in sand, is a stunning volcano called Sakurajima, which means “Cherry Blossom Island.” It has a perfect cone shape and is one of Japan’s most active volcanoes, so local residents regularly practice evacuation drills. We even saw little kids walking to school wearing pink hard hats and carrying emergency kits.

You survived another near-death experience with a dinner, didn’t you?

Pufferfish is a famous Japanese dish, but it’s incredibly dangerous. It naturally contains a powerful poison with no cure, so chefs need around 20 years of training and a special license to safely prepare it. I tried it in Shimonoseki, on Honshu island, and it felt like taking a risky gamble – a bit like Russian or Japanese Roulette!

What does it taste like? I’m guessing… fish?

It tasted strongly of fish, and while it wasn’t the best fish I’ve ever eaten, it was surprisingly good considering the circumstances. It was definitely better than the fried octopus I tried in Osaka, but not quite as amazing as really good sushi. Watching a sushi chef work is incredible – they train for years, and the skill and artistry they show is remarkable. I learned from the chef that the best way to eat sushi is to swallow each piece whole – and these were large pieces! Even though I have a fairly big mouth, I couldn’t really talk much after each bite.

You didn’t suspect they were giving you extra big bits just to shut you up?

That’s not true at all. I actually found the Japanese people to be very welcoming. It’s become surprisingly easy to communicate with anyone, even if you don’t share a language. With tools like Google Translate, you can simply speak into a phone and have it instantly translated for the other person. Traveling as a foreigner is much easier now, too. For example, the Tokyo subway has English signage and announcements, and each station even has its own unique jingle. Regular commuters can rely on these jingles to know when to get off – it’s like a conditioned response!

Want to see this content?

This page uses a security feature called Google reCAPTCHA. Before it loads, we need your permission because reCAPTCHA might use cookies. If you want to see the content, please select ‘Accept and continue’ to enable reCAPTCHA.

Please tell me subway-stop jingles weren’t the most futuristic thing you experienced.

I also visited Waseda University in Tokyo and saw some robots they’re creating to assist seniors, but they still need more development. One robot is designed to help people roll over in bed – it uses arms to support your knees and back for a gentle turn.

It didn’t throw you halfway across the room, did it?

Actually, it seemed to work better with more subtle, Japanese-style designs than with bold, Western ones. I’m not a small person, so I needed to give it a little assistance. There was also a device designed to neatly hang up your shirt, and it did that well. However, when I offered it one of my heavier jackets, it couldn’t handle the weight and simply dropped it. I wondered if it disliked my bright clothes, but I doubt it was a matter of taste.

Great Japanese Railway Journeys, Monday–Friday 6.30pm BBC Two

Authors

Ed GrenbyAssociate Editor, TopMob

Read More

2026-04-13 20:04